Water Test Center Under New Management
For those of you who don’t know yet, Chet the water test manager here has decided to retire and has since moved out of the area. Rest easy however as we are still doing professional water tests and will be more than happy to give our expert diagnostic help. With the vast amount of experience we have here we are still fully equipped to meet your every water test need. Remember to stop in during the spring and get your water chemistry balanced early in the year to allow for a hassle free pool season.
A Frog You Want In YOur Spa
For users of the Nature 2 system, we now carry the Frog Stick. The Frog Stick is similar to Nature 2 in that they are both mineral disinfectant systems, yet the Frog is compatible with Bromine, Chlorine and Oxidizer while the Nature 2 system is not compatible with Bromine. If you are currently using the Nature 2 system you will be happy to know that the Frog Stick works in a very similar manner as Nature 2, you simply insert the Frog Stick into the filter cartridge core (or into the skimmer well of some spas) and allow it to go to work for the next four months. The Frog Stick works together with lower levels of bromine or chlorine for a much more enjoyable spa experience.
Winterizing Your Pool With Proper Chemicals
Some of our customers insist on using liquid chlorine (shock) to winterize their pool. They dump in a case or two of shock and then slam the cover on the pool. The problem is that chlorine is an oxidizer and when the water is super-chlorinated and it comes in contact with the winter cover, it immediately starts chewing up the winter cover.
Big mistake!!! Use a professional winter kit that has components that won’t damage the cover. Plus, most (all of ours!) have time release ‘ingredients’ that work all winter long. Closing with proper chemicals pretty much assures a clean pool in the spring and extended life for the winter cover. Winterizing with liquid chlorine assures that somewhere along the line, you are going to have a cover that splits out with all the gunk on top going into the pool.
Bursting Your Solar Cover Bubble
Every once in awhile, I’ll get a call from a customer who is concerned about their solar cover “popping.” They describe it as the bubbles bursting and falling off into the pool water. Unfortunately, issues like this are not covered under the manufacturer’s warranty because it only covers seam separation. However, I do have some helpful advice to extend the life of your cover. First and foremost, the most common issue contributing to solar cover deterioration is water chemistry. If your water is out of balance it can damage the cover that is resting on the surface. The main culprit of this is your pH level. If your pH is too low it becomes acidic and will eat away at the cover. If the pH is too high it will be very basic and can disintegrate the material. Either way, it’s not a good thing. Chlorine can also cause damage to your cover if the level is too high. Any time a pool is shocked with liquid chlorine, the cover should be removed and left off for at least 24 hours. By allowing the chlorine level to drop back to a normal range, you are avoiding unnecessary damage to your cover. Along with chemical damage, the sun itself can actually hurt the solar cover as well. The little white plastic cover that comes with the solar cover is meant to protect it from the sun when the cover is off of the pool. Rolling up your cover and letting it just sit in the sun will cause it to literally bake itself. The bubbles will “burst” and the cover can actually melt together. Always clean off the cover and allow it to dry for a brief time. Roll or fold the cover, cover it with the white plastic, and store it out of direct sunlight/heat. By following these guidelines you can avoid unnecessary wear on your cover. – Stacey
To Add Salt Or Not To Salt – That Is The Question
At some point in the life of your salt system you will have to add salt. You lose salt through splash out, drag out, and when you backwash the filter. Also when you lower the water level. You do not lose it through evaporation.
Your salt system will tell you when you are low. There are factors that can make these readings false. Temp of the water, how dirty the cell is or a malfunction in the system.
If you try to add on your on add salt a little at a time and wait aleast 24 hours before adding more. 40 to 80 pounds should move the readings at least 200 ppm on your meter or indicator. If it does not STOP. Bring you water to us and we will check with an electronic salt meter that we calibrate. This way we can tell if there may be something wrong with the system or tell you the exact amount of salt to add.
The correct amount of salt is important to the operation of the system as well as it life
Why Should I Use Shock . . . I Already Added Chlorine.
I’ve heard this comment/question more times than I could probably count. Most pool and spa owners understand the basic principle of disinfecting and why one must use chlorine to keep things clean, clear, and most importantly safe. The chlorine used to maintain a level of chlorine around 3 parts per million is doing its’ job by killing off bacteria and preventing the growth of new bacteria. Once the chlorine is effectively “used” it combines with the bacteria to form a chloramine. Now you have decaying organic material floating around in your pool or spa creating odors, irritating eyes, and giving you false readings of chlorine in the water. This is where the good old shock comes in. By adding either liquid chlorine or some sort of granular shock you release the organic materials out of the water and help to rejuvenate some of the existing chlorine. Often times I find people give chlorine a bad name when in fact, they just aren’t shocking enough to allow everything to work properly. So next time you think that chlorine tablet isn’t doing enough remember that is only part of the equation. Just make sure your liquid chlorine is good and fresh, because with a loss of 50% of its strength in the first 60 days you want to ensure you are getting the best bang for your buck.
Clear Pool – Perfect Pool
It always amazes me how few people test the water in their pools. They will come in and say that the water is clear like drinking water, but their children or grandchildren’s eyes are burning or that they are getting a rash.
When I test it most of the time there is little or no chlorine and the PH is extremely low-3.0. The Total Alkalinity is also 0. The reason the water is so clear as nothing can live in a bath of acid and that is what the pool is at this point.
Home testing the water with Pool check 5 test strips twice a week would have prevented this. Now they have a big expense of totally re-balancing the water. I’ll ask them how often they check the water at home and the usual response is “I just put in chlorine and as long as it looks good, why bother”.
Testing the water is the most important part of pool ownership. Proper water balance is what keeps everybody healthy and the water sparkling
Chet
Pool Phosphates
Is algae waiting to feast on phosphates that are in your water? Probably. This means you are more susceptible to an algae bloom and a green pool. (A screaming lady once told me her pool was GREEN and I congratulated her on her pool having character! She didn’t see the humor. I digress). You can burn through extra chlorine or remove the phosphates-your choice. Personally, I’d attack the root problem-the phosphates. Most originate from fertilizers or yard treatment sprays. Phosphates are in the water supply and rain so it is an ongoing battle to keep them under control. If there is a good home test kit for phosphates, I haven’t found it but we can test for phosphates here at Eastgate Pools & Spas. This isn’t a test we normally make but if you ask for a phosphate test we will be happy to provide one at no cost. It does take a little longer than a standard test so give us a little extra time when you come. We can then show you how to control phosphates and make it almost impossible for algae to grow in your pool. –Service
Keep Chlorine In Your Water – Keep The Pool Clear!
A tip: If you use chlorine as your sanitizer there are two key points to remember. 1. As the pool water gets hotter and hotter, you will burn through chlorine quicker. At about 96 degrees, chlorine gasses off’, meaning it turns to vapor. Make sure you maintain a good level of stabilizer or conditioner. A minimum of 30 ppm (parts per million) is recommended-higher if you have a chlorine generator salt system. 2. If your pH is low, chlorine burns out much quicker than when it is in the proper range.
Keep your pH and stabilizer levels in line and you’ve got half the battle won. Let us fight the rest of the battle by having us do a complete water analysis. It’s a free service from Eastgate Pools & Spas and we’re happy to help. –Max
You Don’t Have To Have A Ph D To Control Your pH
pH is the measure of how acid or base your pool water is. The pH scale is from 1-14 with 7 being neutral. Most swimming pools should be kept at a slightly ‘basic’ rate or 7.2-7.8. But what happens when your pH gets very low – down in the 6’s? Lots of things. The filtration system can be damaged, heaters destroyed (with subsequent staining), and any metal components from ladders or steps can be acid etched. In addition, low pH oxidizes chlorine at a much faster rate so you will spend more. pH controls are pretty inexpensive – much cheaper than chlorine. And lastly, if your eyes are stinging or your kids are complaining that they are burning, it’s probably low pH. In short, there are a myriad of reasons to keep the pH right and not a single one to let it stay out of whack. We can help. Just bring a fresh sample for us to test and we will help you get the chemistry back under control. –Max
What’s Wrong With My Pool?
We at Eastgate Pools & Spas understand and appreciate how hectic schedules can be. There used to be 24 hours in a day and I’m not sure that still holds true. It seems like it gets harder and harder to get the things done in the time we have. Perhaps this is why we get lots of phone calls from people trying to describe the vivid colors on their water test strip. They just don’t have time to visit us personally. Well, I’ll make a plea to you…come visit us with your water sample, even if you only do it once or twice a season. We spend thousands of dollars on the latest, most accurate equipment and can give you a complete analysis that in the long run will save you lots of time and aggravation. With this said, please realize that not all chemicals are created equally. Cheap chemicals often have weaker concentrations of active ingredients and more filler material. Whatever chemical recommendations we make are based exclusively on using our products, not the discount stores’. –Chris
Having Trouble Keeping Chlorine In Your Pool?
There are several reasons why pools tend to burn through chlorine and fortunately, most are easy to identify and correct. First, cyanuric acid (stabilizer) holds chlorine in the water. It’s easy to add, inexpensive, and it stays in the water well once added. Secondly, keep you pH in check. A low pH (acid condition) oxidizes chlorine much quicker than pH that is in proper parameters. In other words, if your pH and stabilizer levels are off, plan on using up to three times as much chlorine as needed. For further help go to our website: www.eastgatepools.com/chem/eastchem.htm.
–Drew
Keeping Your Spa Jets Working Properly
Many spas have adjustable jets that allow you to control how much water goes through the jet. These are referred to as ‘turn-down’ jets. You simply rotate the jets open and closed. I recommend that about once a month, while using the spa, open and close each jet one at a time. If you don’t, calcium can build up and make them difficult to open or close. The once-a-month program insures that you can adjust them with ease when you really want to. I also recommend adding our Stain and Scale Remover once a month. It keeps calcium from building up inside the element or the jet nozzles. This keeps the spinning jets spinning and the pulsating jets pulsating. – Max
Salt System – Cell Cleaning
Over time, calcium will accumulate on the cells of salt system chlorine generators. It is recommended that they be periodically cleaned and this is simple. First, turn off the power to the pump. Next, unplug the unit from the control box. Then disconnect the two unions that are holding the two cells in line. Take the entire cell unit off and put it in a bucket. Mix a solution of one part muriatic acid and three parts water. (Please note that muriatic acid is VERY strong so make sure you don’t spill it.) Carefully pour the solution through the center of the cell. You should see an instant change as the calcium is removed. In some instances you may need to repeat the process or increase the solution to a stronger 1 to 1 mix. Follow the acid’s disposal directions that are printed on the side of the muriatic acid’s container. (To get Step-by-Step instructions with photographs go to: www.eastgatepools.com/tips/cellclean.htm). Put it all back together and enjoy your beautiful Eastgate Pools & Spas swimming pool. – Service Department
Going Green
Hey, we’ve only got one Planet Earth and Eastgate Pools & Spas is committed to making a difference. We are moving towards chemical and filtration systems that require less water, less electric, and less leaching of halogen chemicals into the soil. If you have an existing in ground pool, above ground pool, or hot tub and want to make the ‘green’ switch, see us and we can help. –Max